Great Aquarium Species Banggai Cardinalfish

Overview
The Banggai Cardinalfish is an excellent aquarium species, strikingly handsome and easy to keep, even for beginners. In smaller aquariums, it is best kept singly, as males will fight each other to the death if closely confined.
Mating pairs may become aggressive to tankmates, especially in smaller community settings. In a spacious community aquarium or a species tank, they are eyecatching and ideal reef fishes.
Family: Apogonidae
Other common name(s):
Highfin Cardinal
Native range:
Sulawesi
Indonesia
Habitat: Open sandy bottom with seagrass beds, in bays or near reef. Associates with Long-spined Sea Urchins (Diadema setosum).
Maximum length: 7.5 cm (3 in)
Minimum aquarium size: 57 L (15 gal)
Water: Marine 24.4 °C (298 K, 76 °F) - 26.6 °C (300 K, 80 °F)
General swimming level: Mid-level

Feeding
Carnivore. Offer meaty foods, including chopped seafood, adult brine shrimp, mysis shrimp and frozen preparations for carnivores. Live foods will help condition and help stimulate breeding behaviors.
[edit] Aquarium Compatibility
Easy to keep. Serious squabbles may occur in groups of Banggai Cardinals if housed in smaller tanks. A school may require a large tank (100 gal. or more).
[edit] Breeding/Propagation
Mouthbrooder. Male carries eggs in his oral cavity and does not eat for a period of several weeks. Fry emerge fully pigmented and ready to eat baby brine shrimp (Artemia nauplii). Parents will eat young if they are not separated quickly.
See this article by Dr. Frank Marini for an account of early success breeding the Banggai Cardinal: Banggai Breeding I.
See also Matthew Wittenrich's Breeder's Guide to Marine Fishes (Microcosm/TFH 2007) for a full account of how to breed this and other cardinalfishes.
[edit] Notes
May be overfished in its remote wild range. Author Denise Tackett reports that a fish collector in Lembeh Strait, Indonesia, has released this species and it seems to be thriving and spreading.
Buy captive-bred specimens if available.
Reference: 101 Best Saltwater Fishes Image credit: AJN Text credit: SWM
Originally introduced to the aquarium hobby by Dr. Gerald Allen, who "rediscovered" the species in a remote area of Indonesia in 1995 with underwater photographer Roger Steene.
Facts about Banggai CardinalfishRDF feed
Common name
Banggai Cardinalfish +, and Highfin Cardinal +
Family
Apogonidae +
Genus
Pterapogon +
Image credit
AJN +
Maximum length
3 in +
Minimum aquarium size
15 gal +
Native range
Sulawesi +, and Indonesia +
Reference
101 Best Saltwater Fishes +
Specific name
kauderni +
Swimming level
Mid-level +
Text credit
SWM +
Water max temp
300 K (27 °C, 80 °F) +
Water min temp
298 K (24 °C, 76 °F) +
Water type
Marine +
Retrieved from "http://en.microcosmaquariumexplorer.com/wiki/Banggai_Cardinalfish"
Category: Species

"Who Else Wants Healthy,Brightly Colored Cichlids,Get Along With Tank Mates

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Texas Cichlid Rio Grande Perch ~ Pearl Cichlid

The Texas Cichlid is so territorial, snappish, and intolerant...it will even attack plants!
The Texas Cichlid is one of the toughest and most belligerent of all cichlids. Also known as the Rio Grande Perch or Pearl Cichlid it is native to the waters of southern Texas (Rio Grande) and northern Mexico. This fish is the northern most cichlid and has the distinction of being the only cichlid native to North American waters.

Despite its cantankerous personality the Texas Cichlid is sure a pretty fish, sporting shiny sparkling spots all over its body. It has all the habits that are typical of cichlids including digging, moving around the gravel, and shredding plants. They are easy to breed and are very friendly to their owner, pushing up to the front of the tank at feeding time.

Being used to the close quarters provided by rivers, they defend their territory vehemently against all intruders. Though definitely not a good community fish, they are durable and tough enough to be kept with the Red Devil and the Jack Dempsey. They like a tank bottom of fine sand and plenty of hiding places among rocks and wood. Being a most cantankerous cichlid, they will make short work of plants and rockwork by digging a great deal. They do need frequent water changes.

The Texas Cichlid is so territorial, snappish, and intolerant...it will even attack plants!

Distribution: The Texas Cichlid was described by Baird and Girard in 1854, and is also known as the Rio Grande Perch or Pearl Cichlid. They are found in the rivers and lakes of Texas and northern Mexico. Inhabiting pools of warm water and hiding in vegetation, they sift through sand for edible food and will eat crustaceans, insects, worms and plant matter. Three distinct subspecies were recognized by Alvarez in 1970. These include the nominate form Texas Cichlid Herichthys c. cyanoguttatus, the Green Texas Cichlid Herichthys c. carpintis, and tHerichthys c. temporatum.

Status:

This species is not listed on the IUCN Red List.
Description:

The body of the Texas Cichlid is very deep bodied. It has a brownish gray coloration with bright bluish scales that give it a pearly appearance. Adults have two small black spots, one mid body and one at the base of the caudal peduncle. The juveniles have a few more spots in-between.

Mature males develop a nuchal hump on their heads. This fish may live up to 15 years, though 10 years is the average. All cichlids share a common feature that some saltwater fish such as wrasses and parrotfish have. This is a well-developed pharyngeal set of teeth that are in the throat, along with their regular teeth. They also have spiny rays in the back parts of the anal, dorsal, pectoral, and pelvic fins to help discourage predators. The front part of these fins are soft and perfect for precise positioning and effortless movements in the water as opposed to fast swimming. Cichlids have one nostril on each side while other fish have 2 sets. To sense “smells” in the water, they suck water in and expel the water right back out after being “sampled” for a short or longer time, depending on how much the cichlid needs to “smell” the water. This feature is shared by saltwater damselfish and supposedly cichlids are closely related to them.

Size - Weight:

These fish get up to inches 12" (30 cm), the females are smaller than the males.
Care and feeding:

Since they are omnivorous the Texas Cichlid will generally eat all kinds of live, fresh, and flake foods. They get quite large so they should be fed a high quality pelleted food and large chunk foods such as cut up beef heart and earthworms. Live guppies and goldfish will also suffice when they get bigger. Feeding 2 to 3 small amounts each day rather than a large quantity once a day will keep the water quality higher over a longer time. A minimum 60 gallon aquarium is suggested for a single fish, a pair will need at least 100 gallons. They need good water movement along with strong and efficient filtration. The Texas Cichlid loves to dig, so make sure you have lots of substrate for them to use. Because they are avid diggers plants don't fare so well, and they will be eaten or shredded. They do not need a lot of rocks unless you have a very large tank. Be sure they have plenty of room for swimming. The Texas Cichlid is a rewarding specimen for the aquarist as it is easy to keep as long as the aquarium is maintained. They are pretty disease resistant in comparison to other fish. If they are in a tank with ill fish, they can contract the disease, but they respond to all forms of chemical remedies. To help prevent the notorious 'Hole-in-the-Head' disease (HLLE - Head and Lateral Line Disease) that large cichlids are prone to, do water changes of 20 to 25% a week, depending on bio load

Social Behaviors:

The adult Texas Cichlid is not a community fish. As a juvenile this fish is a wimp. It can be kept with barbs but not any other juvenile cichlids. A Jaguar juvenile will kill a juvenile Texas Cichlid. Keep young specimens with their own kind as they will not get the food they need if they are with aggressive tank mates. Once they are older, reaching about 5 or 6 inches, they become the threat. Some of them do great in a community tank and other are terrors. Texas Cichlids generally get territorial and should be kept alone or as a pair in a species tank. They are aggressive toward other cichlids, especially those of the same species although they can get along with other non cichlids. As with all larger South American cichlids, room is the utmost importance to keep aggression down. They will generally burrow and they will dig up plants.
Sexual Differences:

The male has a more pointed dorsal and is larger. The male will also develop the cranial hump on its forehead.
Water Region:

Top, Middle, Bottom: These fish will swim in the middle and bottom areas of the aquarium.
Acceptable Water Conditions: Hardness: 8-15° dH Ph: 6.5 to 8.0 Temp: 70-75° F (21-24° C)
Breeding/Reproduction:

The Texas Cichlid has been bred in captivity and is known to hybridize with other related species. This fish is an egg layer and a pair will form a bond after a “jaw locking” contest between them. A large water change and a temperature higher than 72° F will induce spawning. They will spawn when the male is 4” and the female is 3”. Females will clean off a solid space to lay their eggs, such as a flat rock of bottom of the tank. They will lay hundreds to thousands of eggs and both parents will protect the eggs and fry. When it is time to hatch, the female will chew them out of their egg shells and deposit them in a pit that her and the male have dug out. The eggs will hatch in 3-4 days and are free-swimming in about 4 to 6 days. The male may be a little to serious about protecting his young and perceive the female as a threat, so be prepared to use a divider in the tank for her safely. They are not always as good at being parents as most cichlids, and may eat the fry.
BuyTexas Cichlid From LiveAquaria.com
See the description of how these fish breed in Breeding Freshwater Fish for monogamist cichlids.
Availability:

The Texas Cichlid, also known as the Rio Grande Perch or Pearl Cichlid, is readily available both online and in fish stores. It is usually not very expensive as a juvenile, ranging from about $5.00 - $7.00 USD. Adults in excellent breeding condition are less common and will cost more.
Authors: David Brough, CFS and Clarice Brough, CFS

Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle Start Cycling Aquarium Guide

Cycling your aquarium is the first thing, and the most important thing you must do to provide a healthy and stable home for your fish!

Aquarium maintenance is easy if you have an aquarium nitrogen cycle going on. The aquarium cycle is more commonly known as the nitrification process and is the biological filter for your tank. Aquarium filtration systems work to keep your water pristine and provide a safe home for your fish, and the biological filter is perhaps the most important filtration system to have.
In the table below there are Three Methods for Cycling a New Tank, but first let's look at why you want to have a biological filter and cycled your tank. Let's explore what the aquarium nitrogen cycle is and how it works. Then we'll cover some important things to watch out for to keep it working!
Why cycle your aquarium
Simple! How the nitrogen cycle works
What about the nitrates produced
What is needed for success
Tips to keep your tank cycling
To set- up and prepare your aquarium before cycling it - and to learn about adding fish - see:Quick Guide to Setting Up a Freshwater Aquarium

Quick Guide to Setting Up a Marine Aquarium

Why cycle your aquarium:

The important reason for cycling an aquarium is because of deadly ammonia present in the aquarium. Ammonia kills fish and ALL fish tanks produce ammonia Ammonia enters the aquarium through either fish waste, uneaten foods, and/or detritus that start decomposing. Ammonia can be removed through chemical filtration, but that method requires an ongoing testing and maintenance chore, usually weekly.
A cycled aquarium maintains itself through a natural biological process. Beginning the aquarium nitrogen cycle and continuing the cycle for the entire life of the tank are important to keeping fish alive and healthy. The cycle starts when ammonia becomes present in the tank. Ironically, though ammonia will kill your fish, it is essential for the nitrification cycle. It is the 'food' that feeds the beneficial bacteria, allowing the bacteria to live and thrive, which then provides a balance environment so your fish will thrive.
Simple! How the nitrogen cycle works:

The nitrification cycle is actually pretty simple. It can seem hard because of a couple terms that are not familiar in our everyday language. But basically this is a simple three-step process.
Step One:

The first thing that happens when you put fish in the tank is ammonia is produced. This is from the fish waste or excess foods that are decomposing.
Step Two:

As the amount of ammonia starts to increase, a bacteria forms called nitrosomonas. This bacteria begins to convert the ammonia into nitrite. As the ammonia is converted to nitrite, the amount of ammonia will begin to drop and now the nitrites will begin to rise. Soon your ammonia test will show no more ammonia in your tank. This usually happens within the first week and a half of a normal cycle. Nitrite is also very toxic to fish, though not as hazardous as ammonia.
Step Three:

As the nitrite levels increase, another bacteria forms, called nitrobacter. This second bacteria begins to convert the nitrite into nitrate.

As it is converted to nitrate, the amount of nitrite will drop and the nitrates will begin to rise. Soon your nitrite test will show no more nitrite in your tank. This happens between three to six weeks in a normal cycle. Nitrate is harmless to fish but is one of the nutrients that plants and algae need and is the final product produced in the nitrification cycle. One of the reasons that water changes are recommended is to keep nitrates at lower levels.
The time it takes to cycle an aquarium can be sped up by 'seeding' the aquarium with commercially prepared bacteria. Then the entire cycle will only take between 1 - 2 weeks. This seed bacteria is available in either a freeze dried or liquid form. You can also add bacteria rich media from an established aquarium, like some of the gravel. The seeding should be done after ammonia is starting to form in the newly setup aquarium. You must wait until there is ammonia or the seeded bacteria will starve.
What about the nitrates produced:

Nitrate is the end product of the nitrogen cycle. The simplest way to remove nitrates is through regular water changes. For the most part nitrate is not harmful to fish unless in enormous quantities and for prolonged periods of time, and even then it is only some types of fish are at risk. You will most likely not run into this problem in a regular home aquarium. Nitrates can actually be beneficial if you have live plants, as it is a nutrient for them. Tanks without live plants to utilize this nutrient however, can get excess algae growth. This holds true for both freshwater and saltwater fish only aquariums, but not for the reef aquarium. Nitrates are usually strictly controlled in the reef aquarium because they can cause undesireable algae growth.
What is needed for cycling success:

Besides fish that are producing ammonia, there are two important things the nitrogen cycle depends on:
Needs a place for beneficial bacteria to live and grow:

When you set up your aquarium you will be using a filter of some sort which will provide a home for this bacteria. The most common filters are undergravel filters, external filters, or internal filters. Each of these has a media with a lot of surface area for the bacteria to live and grow on. On the undergravel filter the media is the gravel itself, other filters use some sort of synthetic filter media, such as foam or filter pads. The most important thing to think about when choosing the media is that it provides a lot of 'surface' area for the bacteria colony to grow on. Sponges are laced with holes so a lot of surface area is created inside the entire sponge, pads are similar.
Needs oxygen to survive: The higher the oxygen content of the water, the healthier the bacteria will be. To have oxygen in your water, the water needs to be flowing. Where the water is exposed to the air, usually on the surface, an exchange happens. Here other molecules in the water rise to the surface and are exchanged with the oxygen molecules. Then your filters pump moves the water through the aquarium, and the newly oxygenated water flows over the bacteria.
Tips to keeping you tank cycling:

Once your tank is cycled there are some things to be aware of so that you don't loose your beneficial bacteria. When the bacteria is removed or dies, the ammonia levels begin to rise and you can quickly lose your fish.

Make sure your pump (filter) is always working. Water that is not moving becomes stagnant. If your pump quits or the water stops flowing for some other reason, it is estimated that it takes about 6 hours for the bacteria to die from lack of oxygen.

If your filter media becomes exposed to air and dries out your bacteria will die.
When you remove the sponge or pad media from your filter to clean it, you can easily wash the beneficial bacteria off of it. It is best if you have two sponges or pads. This way you can swap between the two each time you do maintenance, cleaning one and leaving the other. Next time you do maintenance clean the opposite one. It takes about 1 - 2 weeks for a cleaned pad to re-colonize when there is a healthy colony still in the aquarium.

When you remove the sponge or pad media from your filter to replace it, you loose all the bacteria growing on it. Again it is best to have another sponge or pad, and only replace one at a time.
If you loose your beneficial bacteria or it dies, you will have to re-cycle your aquarium again to grow a new batch of bacteria!